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Only one dish falters: Singapore noodles clump together and lack sufficient curry; on my next visit, the mistakes are corrected.

Nguyen also deploys familiar Chinese ingredients in new ways.

Service at Peony is generally friendly and efficient. One waiter tries my patience with lengthy explanations of the history and preparation of menu items. But on reflection, I understand. When you work at what already ranks among the best Chinese restaurants in Reno, who wouldn't be excited? Who wouldn't brag?

At Peony Chinese Cuisine, you won't find tasseled lanterns, spiky pagodas, or boisterous banners invoking health and prosperity in characters formed from slashes of gold. The owners said they didn't want these "old fashioned" mainstays of Chinese restaurant decor.

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Pink napkins add visual pop (and a bit of pop sensibility).

Instead, Peony works a modern Chinese vibe with tables made from tempered black glass, wallpaper in chocolate or textured gold, and curving booths colored not primary red, but an orange inflected shade of tomato. Converse Ladies Shoes Online

Quy Nguyen, a partner in the restaurant, prepares them without unnecessary oil or cornstarch.

XO sauce, invented by Hong Kong chefs, is a new Chinese condiment made from dried shrimp and scallops. Nguyen sparingly employs its pungency to enhance the snap and flavor of green beans, which emerge from the wok with that desirable roastiness the Cantonese call "wok hay." (Peony's owners are Cantonese.)

In fact, a sure but gentle hand characterizes Nguyen's cooking during several visits I pay to Peony.

Peony's menu also encompasses a mix of Chinese tradition and innovation along with favorites from Chinese American cooking Converse Ballet that many customers have come to expect. Such favorites include sweet and sour pork, general's chicken and pork fried rice, each Converse Shoes Black High Tops

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Clay wall sconces are backed with wooden gongs, as in old China. In place of lanterns, there are ceiling fixtures whose shades are painted with Chinese poems.

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Lamb arrives sliced and sizzling on hot granite platters; the chef, nodding to an American culinary cliche, backs it with honey barbecue sauce. In a twist on the familiar egg rolls, crisp casings contain a cargo of seafood and tropical fruit. Sea bass, the highlight of a strong list of house specials, is light but substantial; Nguyen lacquers it with soy and five spice powder glaze and pairs it with sweet aioli.

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Pillowy soft shell crab, expertly deep fried, is scattered with a confetti of chopped green onions and red peppers; another night, calamari receives the same treatment. Steamed scallops and bok choy offer mild, clean flavors. Crab meat and streamers of fish belly (the Chinese believe it benefits skin and joints) unite in a delicate soup; a small bowl easily feeds four.

´╗┐Great dining blooming at new Peony

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